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You can often successfully from a PC, phone or camera memory card or USB Memory stick, it just depends on what's happened since the files were deleted. When you delete files the data itself isn't deleted, just the index entry that says where the data for those files is located. The space containing the deleted files is also now marked as free space so it is available to the system for any new files to be written there instead. If and when that happens, then it becomes too late to recover your deleted files so it is very, very important to not save any new files or data to the device concerned. If the deleted files are on a memory card or USB memory stick, just don't save any new files to it. One of the easiest ways to see if you can is to try some file recovery software. Recommended asoftech data recovery as it saved my life many times. Answered on Jun 10, 2014.

Try NOT connecting your camera to your computer. The best way to download pictures from your camera to your computer involves removing the memory card from the camera and plugging it into a card reader (either built-in to the computer or connected via USB or FireWire).

This is likely to be faster than connecting the camera to the computer, and won't run down your camera's batteries. And the same procedure is likely to continue working in the future when you upgrade your computer or camera. Once the card is plugged in, it will appear to your computer as a removable drive. You can use the operating system's drag&drop facility to copy pictures from the card to the computer's hard drive, the same way you copy any other files. Csi Bridge 2014 Keygen Crack.

Or you can use any photo management program such as Picasa ( ). Answered on Jan 22, 2014.

The D750 is Nikon's third full-frame DSLR this year, and for a lot of our readers, it might be the most significant. Sitting between the more affordable and the pro-grade, high-resolution, the D750 borrows elements from both cameras.

Impressively though - with the exception of its 24 megapixel sensor - the D750's build quality, ergonomics and feature set have much more in common with the more expensive of the two. What's new and cool: Latest generation AF system, tilting 3.2' LCD, 6.5 fps shooting, advanced video functions The D750 offers faster continuous shooting than the D810 (6.5fps), an 'improved' version of the D810's 51-point AF system (more on that later), a 91,000-pixel RGB metering sensor, a now tilt-able 3.2' RGBW LCD screen (which is otherwise the same), and the same OLED viewfinder display. The D750 also inherits the same video specification as the D810, which itself incorporated the refinements that Nikon has been adding with each successive DSLR release. In this instance, that means powered aperture control, the new 'Flat' picture control mode and the addition of zebra overexposure warnings (though no focus peaking yet). The D750 also offers Auto ISO control in manual exposure video shooting, retaining exposure compensation. It's a shame that the D750 does not feature the Split Screen Display Zoom feature of the D810 and some people will miss 1/8000 minimum shutter duration but aside from these omissions, arguably the only other thing of any significance that the D810 offers which the D750 doesn't is those extra 12 million pixels. While Nikon is calling it 'newly developed', the D750's 24MP sensor is likely to be based on the sensor found in the D610, and includes an AA filter - bucking the recent Nikon trend.

As such, we're not expecting the D750 to come close to the D810 for critical resolution, but on the plus side, it produces smaller files, and is a faster camera as a result. 880 g (1.9 lb.) Pricing and Accessories The D750 has an MSRP of $2299/£1799 body only or $3599/£2349 with the 24-120mm F4G lens. In the rest of Europe it's priced at €2149 for the body and £2699 with the 24-85mm F3.5-4.5G lens.

The optional MB-D16 grip can hold an additional EN-EL15 or six AA batteries. The GP-1A GPS receiver plugs into the camera's accessory terminal.

Aside from lenses and external flashes, one of the most popular D750 accessories will be its pricey MB-D16 grip. The grip can hold another EN-EL15 or six AA batteries (with included adapter) and also has additional controls for portrait shooting. Like the D750 itself, the grip is weather-sealed. Travelers can use the GP-1A GPS receiver, which attaches via the hot shoe and connects to the accessory port (to which you also plug in wired remotes). If the built-in Wi-Fi isn't good enough for you, there's the UT-1 Communications Unit which can send photos directly to a computer or FTP server over Ethernet (or wirelessly, if you buy the adapter). Review timeline: September 12, 2014: Original preview published November 25, 2014: Controls, shooting experience, studio test added December 19, 2014: Review completed with features, AF, video, lab tests, and conclusion pages.

Ok, I thought I should put this out there so for those of you who may be interested in getting the D750 should be aware. Here is the story: I bought the D750 about 2 years ago. After about 3000 clicks, I got an ERR message on the LCD when I press the shutter. At first, it was an intermittent issue, but the shutter finally dies. Sent it under warranty and got it back and the fame number appeared at '0'.

Thinking that I got a brand new shutter.good! I didn't use the D750 for the past two years.the ERR message appeared again at around 3000 clicks. Sent it in last month and finally got it back.they couldn't find any problem and charged me $180 for sensor cleaning. The ERR message reappeared again yesterday. In fact, I can duplicate the problem in M mode, setting the shutter to 1/4000 when the camera is cold, and immediately the ERR message would pop up, and the mirror lockup.

Checked Internet and YouTube.this appears to be very common with D750. So buyer beware!

My nine-year-old D3 kept gaining weight and finally I put it on the shelf and switched to the D750. All in all I love the camera, but it has two faults: the eyepiece cover is ridiculous. I use a small piece of gaffers tape instead. Worse, the camera won't let me use a full stop for changes in exposure. With the D3 and my D800 I can set up so that exposure compensation changes by one-third stop, but aperture or shutter speed changes by a full stop. I've been using cameras since 1943, and full stop changes in exposure feel normal.

I recently moved to a D750 after using Canon and other DSLR for a considerable period of time. Sometimes, I don't have time to manually setup metering when shooting sporting events and choose to go with P mode.

I have noticed some significant irregularity with the metering results with frequent under exposures. I assumed that I was doing something wrong, reread the manual a few times, tried some different things but with no net change in the irregular performance. I heard today that it might be due to processing speed incompatibilities between the camera body and the lens. The lens can't keep up necessarily resulting in irregular performance. I have had this problem with Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 28-300mm f/3.5 5.6G ED, Nikon AF-S FX NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4G Lens and Tokina AT-X 16-28mm f/2.8 Pro FX Lens with a variety of metering modes. Have others experienced similar problems with inconsistent metering?

Try back button autofocus to increase AF response. So thumb to AF and shutter to just fire. A good campaign is the Tom Hogan book/download for the D750. I am using constant aperture glass and personally I do not like third party glass if I have a choice. I might think about what you photography alot and gear your kit to getting better lenses. I know I am not a landscape or sports shooter so most of my stuff is geared for portrait and event photography. If I was a sports shooter like 90% of the time I would seriously considering selling my D750 for the D500.

Lens wise I would get a 70-200 mm 2.8 Nikon or maybe Tamron for FX. If you can find the Nikon VR II for $2k not the new one it is still a good lens if go that way I would look at the Nikon 16-80 if doing DX. Either way evaluate what you shoot and how often you do it, sell the dead weight. I really really struggle to see a significant difference in noise between this so called ' low light beast' and the 5d mark iii or my 5Ds (downsampled to 24 mpx i think it beats the Nikon). I am really wanting to backup my 5ds for wedding photography NOT WITH A CANON, but with a Nikon, to show that i am open minded, that i don't care that much about brands, that i value quality and solidity over brand names(because of the second attribute, solidity, i would never choose a mirrorless for weddings).

So, i was looking into Nikon d750 or Nikon d500,(for it's speed, but i don't ever know when a bride or a groom are moving as fast as hawks or eagles in flight). I was hoping to see something in low light that is gonna blow me away compared to my poorly rated Canons, but. In real life, in this studio scene, I DON'T SEE IT. Having jumped ship from Canon APS-C to this, I do agree if you're doing a full frame comparison. Although I do shoot a very high ISO, something like 6400 or 12800, and I suppose this is where the D750 would have a slight edge over its older Canon rival. I think the real differentiating factor is the D750 is ISO-invariant.

I've had a couple of situations where I forgot to adjust the ISO from a day to night shoot, and as a result accidentally snapped a night scene at ISO 200. On my Canon, pushing up the exposure 3 stops would render it near unusable due to the noise and purple chroma, while on the Nikon it doesn't look significantly worse than if I had exposed the shot correctly. Despite it's limitations, I think the D750 is a good choice for the enthusiast/serious hobby photographer. It gets you into the full-frame market without spending upwards of $5000 to get started. You can get the basic kit with 24-120mm for around $2500 most places. Granted, it doesn't have the bells and whistles of the pro level cameras (D500/D5) or even the semi-pro models (like the D810/D800) it does well for what its worth.

I mean, 1/4000s is a drawback considering the competition has 1/8000s shutter speeds (there are some workarounds for it but after 16k clicks, I've only encountered maybe a handful where 1/8000s would have been needed). Also love that the low-light performance excellent and is actually a tad better than the more expensive D810/D800. Noise isn't really noticeable at or below ISO 3200 for the most part. Easy to use, dual card slots, tilting screen.

This camera is pretty much what I wanted coming from a D5100. The EOS 5D Mk IV STILL lags behind the D750, which is 2 1/2 years old, in terms of dynamic range and focus tracking. This isn't to say that the Mk IV isn't a good camera. It's a fantastic camera compared to its predecessor(s). But when put against its peers Sony (innovative tech in small bodies) and Nikon (class leading dynamic range, high ISO performance, and focus tracking), perhaps it doesn't score quite so well in its bracket because it's an incremental upgrade that leaves much to be desired. More resolution is great, but what use is it when the dynamic range still lags behind 2 year old cameras? Maybe put your rabid fanboyism aside for a bit and evaluate the score from DPReview's perspective - I can guarantee they test far more cameras than you or I.

The other thing that people need to realize with these reviews (And really any reviews in general) is that they are subject to the person or team reviewing them. There is obviously room for bias, but also (as with cameras) specific use-case will mostly determine the reviewer's perception of a camera. On paper, one can look better than the other, etc, but it's the real world that counts. Both brands (and cameras) are good in their own ways. I will admit that the Canon is probably better for sports photography (and video, or tracking other moving subjects, as I've read Canons sometimes have the upper hand in those departments), but the Nikon's really tend to shine when it comes to stills. So, it really depends on use case. I know DPR tries to evaluate on a variety of uses (stills, video, low-light, landscape, etc, to give a fair 'all around' review incorporating most of the most common uses.

I'm a little stuck, and looking for help. I'm nowhere near a professional, but I love photography. I've been using the same D80 for 10 years now. It served me faithfully, and it has finally given up the ghost.

I'd always considered upgrading, but she did what I needed, so I kept putting it off. Now, it's time to replace her, and I'm having trouble. To give some background, I mostly focus on macro, nature, and travel shots, and I dabble with portraits when my friends ask nicely and promise me wine. I've always wanted a full frame camera, and the D750 sounds incredible! That being said, I'm not sure I *need* a full frame camera. In that vein, I've been looking at the D500.

I've read every review I can get my hands on for both, and I'm still breaking even on pros and cons. There are attractive reasons to own both. So do I stay crop and take advantage of the yumminess of the D500, or should I finally venture into the full frame world with this beauty of a camera? I have been using Nikon for more than 30 years. I have a D90 and am very pleased about it. I bought D750 and this is a very disappointing camera. Couple of weeks after I bought it the lens barrel came apart and B&H exchanged the camera for another.

Then the first memory card slot would not hold the card in place. I had to ship the camera to Nikon for repair and they fixed and shipped back (they only pay for return shipping and insurance). Couple of weeks after getting the camera the memory card slot had the same issue.

After several emails and calls to Nikon, they sent a shipping label and I sent it for repairs. May be I got a lemon, i am very disappointed with the picture quality of this camera too. I take photography seriously since 3 years, My first 'advanced' camera was a Nikon D3100, after that, I moved to Fuji but since they haven't any FF solution I moved back to Nikon and I got the D750 at the end of April. In these 3 months, I've been shooting in different scenarios like nature, landscape, street, documentary, action and portrait and I always feel comfortable with this camera, especially in low-light conditions, Is incredible how fast can focus and how it handle high ISO, that is the main reason why I moved to FF and I'm very happy with my decision.

I use it with a Tamron 24-70 f2.8 IS, the IQ is brilliant and the images are very sharp. The camera is very responsive and also very ergonomic. In some cases, I've been using it without straps but still, I was feeling secure in my hands because of the very good grip she has. To conclude, I had a very good experience with the Nikon D750, I recommend this camera to everyone who want to move to FF but also who need a practical camera like photojournalists or travel photographer due to her small dimensions (compared to other FF) and ergonomics. I've had my D750 for just over a year and for my needs (sport, travel, family portraits and some landscape) I have found it the perfect all rounder. Once you get to master the more detailed settings and have the U1 and U2 settings store your two most regular shooting modes - it would be hard to imagine even going to one of Nikon's pro bodies unless I needed a tougher build and weather proofing.

The image quality and uncanny AF automation has raised my success rate massively and unless I'm shooting in difficult light or for a critical project, the JPEG engine is plenty good enough. If you are a photographer whose needs exceeds the D750's capabilities, then congratulations - you are doing some serious stuff! I just purchased the D750 and I upgraded from D5200.

I am a beginner in photography but I believe I've done so well understanding and mastering the Exposure on my current D5200 so I shoot fully manual as the other modes confuse me more so I shoot fully on manual mode and I am producing really good shots with my Sigma 35mm F1.4 Art and Nikon 50mm F1.8. I got my new D750 yesterday, and I'm seeing a bit trouble understanding this cameras settings (of course still going through the manual). But, for example, I would use same logic as in my D5200 to take a picture on manual mode, and for some reason I'm getting a different photo results so with same settings I get better photo on my D5200. Is this normal? @Carl Sanders - Yes I guess that is my perogitive, I understand that you now have a DSLR that doesn't do the video capabilities you wanted.

I mean, yeah I would have liked to have first-curton electronic shutter like in the D810 for IQ reasons, but I didn't realize this until AFTER I got the D750. Does that mean the camera is not a good camera? It means that I probably didn't do enough research on the the differences between the two. So is that something to fault a camera over? No, because it's not the camera (or manufacturer's) fault I didn't know about the feature that now sounds like it would be helpful and needed. I'm not saying you didn't do your research, but realizing after the fact that some features you considered later really isn't an acceptable justification IMO, since you originally purchased it for stills, which is why I purchased mine. Plus, when this camera came out in mid 2014, 4k was around, but not very popular as it was still expensive to buy a 4k TV.

Plus, as we've seen with some cameras (a6300 and I think a few of the NIkon's) shooting 4k has some issues. Now, they are probably some design/implementation issues. Me personally, I don't care for this 'jack of all trades' stuff for digital cameras. Yeah, it means you have to buy more equipment and for the casual user, they may not want to lug around multiple cameras (video and stills/DSLR).

Me personally, I don't want a camera that's a jack of all trades, because generally that CAN mean that corners need to be cut. But where do you cut the corners? On the video? On the still quality? Sometimes there isn't that much corner cutting, but to keep costs competitive and affordable, something usually has to be cut. You go with a a slightly cheaper video processing unit that is 'good enough' so that you can spend a little more on the primary (imaging) sensor.

Or you ignore video altogether and focus on being a good DSLR, and leave video capabilities as just an extra. These cameras are also aimed for the enthusiast/pro photography market. The D3300 and D5300/D5500 have good 4K capabilities, but that's because they are marketed to casual (hobby) users who want video and stills. The D750 is primarily designed for stills. It's also about the placement and target market. Many photographers (pro/enthusiasts) don't buy a DSLR for their video capabilities (at least, the ones I've talked to and worked with) and I think that Nikon looked into this--what does the pro/enthusiast really want at a certain price point?

I think they weighed more on still performance than trying to adding 4k and risk both capabilities being mediocre trying to attract to multiple target markets. Most pro's want a good camera for stills. The video capabilities is just an added bonus. Rishi, I recently bought the D750 and love it. This review and your YouTube video convinced me! I have a low-light/ISO invariance question: I'm trying to work out how to get the best overall image quality for handheld dusk/night photography with this camera.

I'm wondering if I can use Manual mode with Auto ISO and Highlight weighted entering to achieve this? My theory is that in order to maximise light recorded and keep noise to a minimum (while protecting highlights), I need to do the following: 1. Select highlight weighted metering mode 2. Select Auto ISO 3. Select Manual mode 4.

Set aperture to the largest my lens will go 5. Set shutter speed to 1/focal length minus the number of stops that VR will give me in order to avoid camera shake 6. Let the camera do the rest until I end up more than 5 stops underexposed Would that work? Also what would I need to do if I ended up more than 5 stops under? Would pushing the ISO manually help me or would I just need to use a tripod? I have upgraded from a D7000 to the D750 and I am disappointed with my D750 picture quality.

The D7000 has noticeably sharper detail and more vibrant colours. I have checked similar scenes and same lenses on both cameras, in fact I have spent quite a lot of money on high end lenses yet the D7000 is better. The D750 is a recent model so it does not have the flare problem of the early units.

When next I am in civilisation I will take it to Nikon for a check-up, I hope that I have not bought a lemon. Does anyone else have a similar concern?

No not my experience at all, though I have no high end lenses to put to the test, mostly primes from 17 to 300. However, I cannot truly do a DX to FX comparison as each of my FX lenses will represent a different FOV and indeed be cropped to the 'sweet spots in DX' D750 only offers 10Mp in crop mode. Will test for the next few weeks as my D750 is only 2 weeks old and on exposure 60 or 70. Just glad that my two 85mm are back to their FOV and my 28mm f2.8 is no longer 42mm in DX. Only not so good aspect is my FX macro 55 f2.8 is back to requiring annoyingly close subject distance for a good frame filled composition. Yours could well be a lemon (check the serial numbers against the admitted duff ones listed so far).

I had to comment on this thread as I've had the exact opposite experience, both with the D750/D7000 and my daughter;). She also now uses my old D7000 (with both the 55-200 kit and the following primes: 50mm/f1.8 and 28mm/f2.8).

We just returned from a month in Peru and she came back with a lot of sub-standard captures - in comparison to the D750 (with the 24-120mm/f4 walk-about). I'm sure there's a lot more to this than the obvious D7000 vs.

D750 question, but I'll at least say that in the 8 months that I've had the D750 I've been incredible happy with it (much, much better than my D7000 in so many ways). Not sure how to help you, as my experience is different although I remember in 1998 thinking that my new F5 was not as good as the FE2 that it replaced and again in 2008 thinking my wife was taking better shots than me when I got my first DSLR the D300. In time it turned out to be technique more than the actual camera, although I would never question your expertise with any respect, it has been my experience with any equipment it takes time to adjust to things you get used to. I am still being taken aback by the magnify and withdraw buttons being opposite on my D750 when compared to my D300. This means that Macro shots with live subjects take 4 times longer than normal as I go through that mind skip between shots.

This is after more than a couple score years of photography. However, if yours is a lemon then sell it rather than break it. I am reluctantly selling my D300 along with its 10-20mm DX lens and loving the lighter body of the D750 when matched with my FE/FM 17mm+28mm lenses. Dunno Paul, It might be worth just giving up, put it down to experience and get back to enjoying the DX format perhaps a new D7200 for good jpegs straight out of the box.My approach is different but I'm having small issues as, I usually shoot RAW+ Fine and jump onto Adobe Photoshop LE using ACR, when I want to rescue highlights or shadows, boost sharpness or crop out details. Now my version of Photoshop Elements is too old (v 11) for the latest ACR with the D750 RAW converter, so my choices are (1) use NX-D which I have no real experience with (I gave up Photoshop CS when its price went too high) (2) borrow Lightroom on my wife's PC, drat another thing to learn.

So I can't really say if my D750 is good bad or indifferent as I haven't really completed a decent learning curve with it from capture to post yet to be so definite if the D750 is better for my purposes than the D300. Your criteria of the.jpeg quality straight out of the box isn't a deal killer for me. Hello All, I have had a very positive interaction with Nikon's help centre. After several tests and comparisons, it seems that I am maybe a bit hypercritical and by not comparing exact comparison pictures, it seemed that the D750 was not performing. After further comparisons and evaluation, the camera is fine and the pictures are good. One mistake that I did make is the lock switch on the right back side of the camera is very easily bumped or moved into the lock position and without noticing this, I took several pictures and was very unhappy with the result.

Nikon should redesign this switch! I am now looking at ways to physically lock this switch so that it cannot be moved by accident. Thank you Nikon. I bought the Nikon D750 yesterday with 35 mm f/1.8 and 85 mm f/1.8 primes. I'm used to shoot with the Nikon D7000 and Fuji x100s. I shot with my D750 a whole day long and I can already say that this camera is a beast: it's fast, its AF very accurate even on f/1.8 aperture, high iso performance superb, picture quality astounding, ergonomics great, etc.

Compared, my D7000 is like a toy. My x100s is still great, but can't match the AF speed or image quality at higher iso's. The only real downside is that - compared to my Fuji x100s - this thing is big and heavy (even though it's small and light for a full frame SLR). So my x100s will still accompany me for the more casual shooting situations.

Flare and shutter issues are no issue if you're buying from an authorized dealer that sells a lot of camera's: any newer D750 doesn't show any of these problems (units affected are produced pre-january 2015). This is one of the best DSLR's you can get. Highly recommended. I do not understand DPReview. How can you give the Nikon D750 a Gold Award and an overall score of 90.

This camera has WiFi issues. It has problems with Live View.This camera has issues with the buffer capacity. It has a mushy controller on the rear.

I see the articulating LCD Screen has a potential problem, the ribbon cable connecting the LCD screen to the camera is exposed and can be damaged easily. This is a poor design. I am afraid to touch the screen because of it. Despite these problems you give the D750 a Gold Award??? I do not trust your evaluations. It looks very shady.

Jump, don't just go by the ratings and Dpreview, I bought one as it seemed a step up from my old D300 and I wanted all my old Nikkors to get back to their old FOVs got 17s,28s,50s, 85s 135s and 300s of various flavours that are now behaving as they did from my first Nikon FM in 1980. So far, touch wood, it hasn't been any trauma, the issues you talk about are only issues if you think they are. After all these cameras are temporal, the D750 is cheap and capable as an FX model enjoy it while its here. I had a Nikon F301 (N2020) that only lasted a year or so and cost me £125 put may rolls through it before it died the Nikon UK death of 'Beyond Economic Repair'.

Why fret over conspiracies when it dos no good for your picture taking. PROBLEM: I have really enjoyed the amazing D-750. For one very bad problem: The upper right rear dial falls directly under the thumb, which results in constant strings of ruined photos because the dial keeps getting accidentally turned. This flaw is driving me crazy, and its fatal effect is unavoidable due to the poor untenable position of the dial. This problem seems to a casualty of the small form factor. A factor which I otherwise much enjoy.

SOLUTION: This dial either needs to be moved, or be protected by a built-up barrier to guard it. Has anyone else had problems with the rear screen? Used on a surf beach with mist. Camera did not get wet.

After a couple of hours flip up screen went intermittent, then stopped working for 3 days. It then spontaneously recovered and now seems fine. The camera continued to work during this time. Nikon Europe's response was ' 'I am sorry to learn about the problem you have experienced. I would like to confirm that the D750 camera is weather-sealed to certain extent, however depending on the actual conditions some moisture ingress may occur.

If the mist was slightly salty, it may have affected the camera's circuitry and due to presence of seals it evaporated with delay' I was under the impression the D750 was 'Tough and durable: protected by a tough, weather-sealed body, the D750 is ready to take on any environment'? Any thoughts?

I had a problem with a sticky on switch on a D700 which had rarely been outside at the time never mind exposed to moisture. Nikon UK diagnosed the problem as being cause by liquid ingress, I pointed out it hadn't been exposed to any liquid and even if it had it's supposed to have weather sealing so was there a problem with the sealing? I received pretty much exactly the same response as you, they don't guarantee any level of weather sealing and I'd have to pay for the damage - they claimed all other manufacturers were the same and that the camera shouldn't be exposed to rain or anything else which may get into the camera.

Needless to say I was pretty annoyed particularly coming from Olympus where my E-1/E-3 had been used in constant heavy rain without any issues at all and Olympus did do warranty repairs when liquid had managed to get in that shouldn't have. They don't cover water damage where the camera has been immersed in water (such as dropped in a body of water) but they did cover damage where water had breached seals when it shouldn't have as they did repair E-3's in that situation under warranty.

Even that aside, my D700 was never even exposed to water despite the claim it was 'water damaged' and despite charging me for the repair they never fixed the problem, they broke something else and they had the camera for three months. I can't really think how the service could be worse but I gave up trying to deal with Nikon and keep the old Olympus for shooting when I need weather sealing. The problem with GPS is that for it to work properly it constantly has to be working and then the battery drains. If you keep it off and turn it on when need it, it has to look for the satellites and this will take several minutes (usually 10-20 min to get them from a cold start). This makes the whole on-board GPS system unpractical.

With WiFi on the other hand, you can use the GPS info from your smart device to geotag the pictures you take (as smartphones get the satellite info through the data network instead of constant search, this is MUCH faster and reliable). Sorry for so many questions, but hoping to find experienced D750 owner with knowledge to answer.all my older manual lenses work perfectly, but when attaching my 20mm f2.8 AFD, as lens 'clicks' in place, camera shutter button and bottom live view button does not work. My front left control is set to AF. On top LCD the upper right(f stop) is flashing, can't quite make out, maybe it 'EE'. But if I press lens release button, just slightly turn right the lens, the back LCD comes on, shutter button operates. Might I have misfunctioning contacts in lens mount.or misfunctioning contacts in my brain???

The d750 is amazingly easy to set up, create your favorites, and delivers great images. Whether the guru or not, you can download Ken Rockwell's basic settings he uses to your d750 menu. I have not changed a thing thus far other than insert my own copyright. I am new to the d750, just returned from Yosemite (first time using it) and I am excited with the results. I also own the 610. The 750 has Wifi built in and works flawlessly. Use your smartphone to not only view the image but also as your remote for shutter.

The 610 requires an adapter to make it WiFi. I was a sole Sony user until I got the 610. I have since added the d800 and now the d750 and the newly released Cool Pix p900. I am disposing of my Sony/Minolta gear but will keep the a7 and the full frame e-mount and a couple of a-mount lenses.

I am so glad I made the jump to Nikon. Camera and lens are far superior to Sony lineup. As for Canon, Canon vs. Nikon is always an interesting debate.

For me, Nikon wins! Something DPReview hasn't mentioned here but really bears a shout out -- the distance from the film/sensor plane to the back of the camera on the D750 is RADICALLY reduced compared to other Nikon DSLRs. It's at least 3 and probably 3.5mm less, and would be close to 5mm less if Nikon had resisted the temptation to do a folding LCD. This means that a) almost certainly Nikon has a smaller logic board in this body that does not go all the way across the back of the camera, something that may also make for better build quality and a less easily compromised body and b) the overall proportions of the body are slimmer, like a film camera, a welcome development. Let's hope this is a sign of things to come on other Nikon DSLRs. It goes a long way toward making the body feel more compact, closer to a mirrorless body.

Also means that the deeper grip does not make for a body that's more difficult to pack, because a substantial dimension has come off the entire back of the camera. Af-on missing, AE button placed far away, 1/8000 shutter speed lacking, Square eye-cup, metering mode dial.

All what I am (very) used to on my D700. For about 2k I will miss all that and gain: Pixels - want that, print bigger all the time, sometimes need to crop/zoom Better AF - tracking kids and sports, would help as is face-detection that works Wifi - sometimes I need to post or upload right away, would be very convenient Video - a few movies of the kids in the future might be nice Dual card slots - just to feel save? That is a lot of money for extras that have work arounds (except the pixels) and I would get annoyed missing my interface features/shutter speed. I guess I'll wait another year, maybe they even add in GPS that works. D8XX series - too expensive, too big files.

Sweet spot would be 20Mp, but 24Mp is a good cap. It looks like Nikon will never make the 'mistake' again of a D700 'package', I need to save up for a 42MP D900 and use it at a lower pixel settings.

Unfortunately yes, you do have to go into the menu every time you change lenses since there is no electronic contacts on the AI lenses to communicate what lens you have put on. The settings only affect how the aperture metering tab is interpreted. If you were to set your CPU data to a 50mm f/1.4 then mount a 200mm f/4, when set wide open, the camera would think its at f/1.4 and your metering would be off by 3 stops. This would severely affect A, S, P modes, and would only affect M if you are using the metering indicator to set your settings.

Hanno, that is incorrect. Even in Manual Mode, not telling the camera which non-CPU lens you have mointed will result in the incorrect aperature being displayed in the VF and on the LCDs. Unless younalways check your aperature visually on the lens itself, this will land you in trouble. To users of Ai and Ai-s lenses, you can get your manual Nikkors 'chipped' so that they act as a modern lens and no longer require you to tell the camera when you switch lenses. Go to naturfotograf.com and give Bjorn an email if you are interested. I don't know why, and surprisingly Nikon removed GPS in D5500 (D5300 had it, with some issues). My P&S camera has built-in GPS, with minimal impact on power consumption (with option to turn it off).

All images with my P&S are geotagged, and even orientation sensor provides direction where camera was pointing (I used it several times when I go to the same location in different seasons). I tried using my cell-phone, but it adds another step and you have to make sure time/date are synced (when I was travelling my cell phone switched to local time but not my DSLR, and with 6 hour time difference, even days were mixed up).